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Post by mancub on Nov 16, 2010 6:30:57 GMT -8
Nice pieces, Stingers. Frames suit them well!
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Post by mancub on Nov 16, 2010 6:35:27 GMT -8
By the way, what's the title and artist of the middle piece above^? Thanks.
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Post by stingers on Nov 16, 2010 6:46:41 GMT -8
Aaron Horkey : No More Noir
It's only a show postcard as the painting is not for sale (not that I could afford it if it was), but it is one of my favourite Horkey images so I framed what I could !
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Post by mancub on Nov 16, 2010 6:52:12 GMT -8
Aaron Horkey : No More Noir It's only a show postcard as the painting is not for sale (not that I could afford it if it was), but it is one of my favourite Horkey images so I framed what I could ! Hey, I know how you feel sting-man. Still looks very sharp, thanks for the info! |
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Post by dotdot on Nov 16, 2010 6:55:34 GMT -8
well, i just gave you one back afro... previous experience is everything, and i'd find it hard to use someone that doesn't come unanimously recommended. had heard good things about pauli framing too, but forgot the name when i posted earlier. what is the name of the framer you use dotdot? always good to hear recommendations. Frameworks (workshop) - pm me if you/anyone need/s their phone no ? etc.. cheers .. |
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Post by shine166 on Nov 16, 2010 10:01:22 GMT -8
cheers for the info guys, il check out the people mentioned
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Post by zippy on Nov 16, 2010 14:23:47 GMT -8
I have recently been using one of the guys off the forum who is privately framing works for friends.
Before that i have been using Artefact in Windmill Street off of Charlotte Street. Very good service and reasonably priced.
Heard some horror stories re other framers and using brown tape etc..
also heard of some damaging prints. be careful.
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Post by shine166 on Nov 30, 2010 15:24:48 GMT -8
Anyone had any recent jobs done, that they can reccomend ? Think its time to get proactive with the framing I need done
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Post by badcatgary on Dec 15, 2010 12:10:41 GMT -8
Does anyone have recommendations for framing in the D.C. area? I have been spoiled by Sherman Gallery and have not found a place with the same variety and helpful staff since returning to the east coast.
And for those even remotely close to L.A., Sherman Gallery (in Marina Del Rey) is just awesome!
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Post by yukikaze on Dec 30, 2010 16:08:17 GMT -8
Hi guys. Is there a protocol for dealing with embossed watermarks when framing a print?
The Amy Sol print I'm trying to frame is embossed on the bottom right corner which is aligned with the white border and not the art. Should the mat cover it up or should the embossing show?
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Post by cpk on Dec 30, 2010 18:58:32 GMT -8
I've only aimed to show the signature.
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Post by shine166 on Feb 10, 2011 8:06:28 GMT -8
Does anyone know where I can buy decent but cheapish frames for quad sized cinema posters ?
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Post by saL on Feb 10, 2011 9:28:41 GMT -8
Im sure this was discussed many time, so feel free to direct me to the right thread/forum/page, but is it really necesary to get a museum/mirogard glass for something that is gonna be hanging @ home, out of direct sun light?!... Im asking cause I can't justify the price difference, and the guy at the shop thinks the same...
any inputs, info, suggestions, ideas, are more than welcome..
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Post by dotdot on Feb 10, 2011 10:48:27 GMT -8
Im sure this was discussed many time, so feel free to direct me to the right thread/forum/page, but is it really necesary to get a museum/mirogard glass for something that is gonna be hanging @ home, out of direct sun light?!... Im asking cause I can't justify the price difference, and the guy at the shop thinks the same... any inputs, info, suggestions, ideas, are more than welcome.. it all depends on what it is and whether it's important to you. if it's something your daughter drew at school then perhaps uv is a tad overkill. if it's a drawing by blu then even though its small - yeah it'd say it's probably worth it. it's worth noting the framer is a big part of the equation here. I've dealt with framers in the past who rarely see anything of any value so would recommend against it - to keep you as a customer since they're "saving you money". but then as I said earlier... they need to see it from your viewpoint not your pocket. me ? uv or uv equiv for everything - even though the light in londres is not great. good luck.. btw. oh and btw - I know a fine restorer who has worked on items more than 300 years old... "colour goes... with ANY light. Only GOOD and i mean good (think Titian if you've ever seen one) paint lasts... " |
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Post by epicfai on Feb 10, 2011 17:28:17 GMT -8
Im sure this was discussed many time, so feel free to direct me to the right thread/forum/page, but is it really necesary to get a museum/mirogard glass for something that is gonna be hanging @ home, out of direct sun light?!... Im asking cause I can't justify the price difference, and the guy at the shop thinks the same... any inputs, info, suggestions, ideas, are more than welcome.. there's also varying degrees of expensive, i.e. UV glass/plexi vs Museum glass/plexi. generally, if i care enough to frame it i put it under UV if its a print and museum if its a special OG. |
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Post by saL on Feb 11, 2011 0:14:39 GMT -8
thanks epicfai and dotdot for your inputs..
I got an impression that museum works if you have a direct sunlight, or a lot of light in general (galleries, public places, camera flashes), and people looking at the piece are paying for that, so the presentation has to be the best possible.. in that case being a perfectionist is the only reason that justifies using museum at home..
as dotdot said, any color will fade, so museum or UV, with "home factors", museum glass still sounds to me like putting racing tires on your everyday car - sure it will grip better or whatever, but you're not gonna use their full potential..
anyone agrees/disagrees!?
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haven
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by haven on Feb 11, 2011 6:53:19 GMT -8
Sal, it's my understanding that museum glass not only offers the best protection, but prints and art actually look the best behind it. I know that with something like non-glare plexi things can look a bit dim and not as sharp. Something to think about other than just fading.
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Post by voleboy on Feb 11, 2011 7:05:48 GMT -8
I've got museum glass on a couple of originals at home. They weren't a huge expense, 7-800 each but the glass didn't cost too much more than decent grade stuff.
I just wanted to make sure the art looks the best and is protected. Even if not in direct sunlight, the ambient light around will affect the work over time. One of them is simple graphite on paper, so is more at risk too.
If it's a very bright day you can see relfections, but a lot of the time you can't see the glass at all and it's like looking at the paint.
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Post by gildoinc on Feb 11, 2011 11:39:59 GMT -8
I have museum glass on quite a few things and it does make a difference in terms of viewing the work. Since we don't know what type of piece you are framing it is a little more difficult to give solid advise. For example, certain oil sticks and graphite pieces can't be under plexi because the static can interfere with the work.
One thing I always think about is the fact that were I hang work now is not necessarily were I will be hanging it in 2 years. Even if something isn't in direct sunlight today, it might be more exposed in a few years. And, as Voleboy said, it doesn't have to be in direct sunlight for it to be affected.
I have an excellent framer and usually trust their advise. In general I say go with the best protection you can afford and keep in mind that the various plexi options and glass options also effect the way you can view the work. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Post by saL on Feb 21, 2011 10:18:52 GMT -8
hey guys, Im still looking for a good framer in Amsterdam to finally frame my green CYW, and since this is gonna be my first serious framing, I dont wanna end up going for something I'll regret later on.. so, thanks for all your inputs on glazing question... now comes the mounting bit  all the shops I asked @, told me they are mounting the print to the backing board with acid free tape.. now, I was wondering if that is common, acceptable thing, as I somehow dont like the idea of this print being taped at all!?.. as I said, Im a total newbie at museum standard framing, so I wanna make sure I know what Im looking for and what Im getting for my money.. if acid free tape mounting is not a good option, what would you suggest me to look for?!.. any input is more than welcome... cheers again! |
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Post by Weekender on Feb 21, 2011 11:34:21 GMT -8
for paper artworks, i usually have them glued (acid free of course)/mounted over an acid free foam board as a basic requirement, for conservation purposes. A good framer should know and do the job.
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Post by saL on Feb 21, 2011 12:31:29 GMT -8
ok, that is what I keep hearing but this "glue" part bothers me... isn't that gonna leave marks on the paper!?.. I guess "acid free" is not the same thing as your duct tape, but still Im guessing some marks will have to stay on it.. or not?!..
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Post by Weekender on Feb 21, 2011 12:38:58 GMT -8
ok, that is what I keep hearing but this "glue" part bothers me... isn't that gonna leave marks on the paper!?.. I guess "acid free" is not the same thing as your duct tape, but still Im guessing some marks will have to stay on it.. or not?!.. Personally tape bothers mo more aesthetically as there might be some unevenness when mounted on it, well glued piece (small wheat paste) or paper hinged work would look better, but of course, if you plan on selling it without a frame in the future or for inspection purposes, best to have minimal intervention. I prefer having a "permanent" conservation framing if i dont intend to sell/ open it in my lifetime, or pieces that are for keeps. I think it defeats the purpose of conservation framing if you keep on disturbing it....well just my thoughts. This might help: www.conservationregister.com/guidancemountingframing.asp |
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haven
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by haven on Feb 21, 2011 13:00:11 GMT -8
I'm no expert and I'm not entirely sure of the method Weekender is talking about, but gluing a print to the backing board sounds a lot like dry mounting to me and would probably scare the crap out of me, especially for a high value piece.
If you're going to use a mat I'd most likely go with Mylar corners and strips so there's absolutely nothing attached to the print. If floating I'd consider Japanese Hinges using wheat paste. Completely reversible and shouldn't leave any sign that it was there. There's a great thread on ebeans in the framing forum on how to float a print, it's about 3/4s of the way down the page.
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Post by Weekender on Feb 21, 2011 13:07:59 GMT -8
Thanks haven, by gluing i mean small wheat paste used on the edges, and paper hinged i meant the Japanese paper hinges , as you emphasized.
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